Lime is KEY here
June 9, 2008 at 7:23 am | In Dessert, Pastry, Pies and Tarts | 7 CommentsTags: graham cracker crust, key lime, key lime pie, key lime tart, macadamia nuts, raspberries, simple syrup, strawberries, white chocolate mousse
The first time I ever had Key Lime Pie, was when I was about 11, on school vacation in West Palm
Beach, Fla with my family. I remember thinking ‘Wow, this is even better than Lemon Meringue Pie..I think I’m going to invent a Lime Meringue Pie with this cool key lime.. (not yet privvy, or shall I say, innocently ignorant to the fact that thousands of chefs and home cooks had already nailed that one, along with ‘name ANY citrus fruit curd’ meringue pies)..SO, when we get back home, the first thing I want is key limes.
Me : “WHAT?? There’s no key limes at the local supermarket? What about the fruit stands, Mom?? OMG, I really want to ‘invent’ this pie, and NO, I’m not using regular limes!”
Mom: “Oh, honey, you can’t really tell the difference, trust me”
Actually, there IS a difference, and quite a discernible one at that. Not only does it look different (thinner rind, and ‘mostly’ more yellow green, unlike the deep green limes you see at your supermarket) but the key lime is more tart, and has a slightly bitter undertone to it.
Although most associate it with the Florida Keys, Hemingway, and all that jazz..surprisingly, it’s native to Southeast Asia, and made it’s way to the tropical climates of North America via the Middle East, then on to Italy, Africa, finally ending up in the West Indies, where it made it’s way throughout the Caribbean, and is now also grown in places like Mexico and California.
Having said all that, as the weather has gotten warmer, my craving for anything key lime has started to increase, so, on to my dessert..Individual Key Lime Tartlets with White Chocolate Mousse, raspberry, candied macadamia nuts, and a simple syrup doused with some of the oils accumuluated from macadamia nuts being ground into a paste.
I started by using *Claudia Fleming’s recipe for graham cracker tart shell dough from her book The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern . I decided to make 4-inch tarts (incorporating ground macadamia nuts into the dough) which gave me 6 filled to the top tarts total. Since I had some leftover dough, I eventually used it for what else? Graham crackers! Not your ‘usual’ graham crackers, but round, lumpy ones with cocoa nibs and other toppings, like chile flakes and fleur de sel. That’s another blog, though.

These are the tart shells after being docked, and baked blind…ready to be filled and baked again. I used a basic key lime/condensed milk filling for these,which you’ll see in the full recipe at the end.

Once they’re baked and filled, they go back into the oven for another 15-20 minutes. They firm up rather quickly, but still need to be refrigerated for a while before plating and serving.

And here they are out of the oven. Now, there’s a ton of ways you can plate and serve these babies. Below, are three examples, (one with a whole lot of meringue)…with the recipe following.
Other ways include whipped cream, mint, lots of other kinds of fruits and/or chocolates (like a dark chocolate drizzle across the top of the tart) or toasted coconut. Fleur de Sel makes a nice crunchy contrast, whether it be on the tart itself, the fruits, or the mousse, as does a pinch or three of dried chile flakes or cayenne, for a little extra kick. The sky is pretty much the limit here, as these tarts are your ‘blank canvas’, and a tasty one at that!



Key Lime Tartlets with White Chocolate Mousse, Raspberry, Candied Macadamia Nuts, and Macadamia Simple Syrup
*Graham Cracker Tart Shells
Ingredients
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
- 1/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup honey
- 2 cups all purpose flour
- 1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1/2 cup ground macadamia nuts
- 6-12 tsps of raspberry preserves or jam (optional)
Directions
1. To prepare the graham cracker shells, in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the buter and sugars until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the honey and beat until well combined.2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, macadamia nuts, salt, and cinnamon. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in two batches, scraping down the sides of the bowl between additions. Mix until the dough is well combined. Scrape the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and form it into a disc. Chill until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
2. Preheat the oven to 325. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to 1/8 inch thick, about a 13×16 rectangle. Using a 6-inch cookie cutter or glass, cut out 6 circles of dough and press them into lightly greased 4 to 4 1/2-inch tart pans, preferably with removeable bottoms (you can use smaller tart pans if you like, just cut out smaller circles of dough and adjust the baking time. Obviously, the smaller the tart pan, the more tarts you’ll get out of this recipe. On the flip side, you can make TWO 9-inch tarts, just double the key lime filling and, again, adjust the baking time) , trimming away excess dough. Prick the dough in each tart pan all over with a fork and chill on a baking sheet for 20 minutes or more.
3. Bake until golden brown, 15-18 mins. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. When they’re cool, I like to lightly spread the bottom of each tart with about 1-2 tsps of raspberry preserves or seedless jam.
*Alternatively, you can use a basic graham cracker crust, using ground graham crackers. sugar and melted butter. To be honest, although Claudia’s tart dough is nice, I’m probably going to use the basic crust next time, as it’s a personal preference of mine when it comes to key lime tarts or tartlets.
Alternative Graham Cracker Crust, loosely adapted from Joy of Baking
Ingredients
- 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- 1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
- 3 tablespoons granulated white sugar
Directions
Preheat oven to 325F
Mix together the graham cracker crumbs, melted butter and sugar. Evenly divide the mixture and press onto the bottom and up the sides of the 6 – 4 inch tart pans with removable bottoms. (Each tart will use about 1/4 cup of the graham cracker crumb mixture.) Place the tart shells in the refrigerator to chill for 10-15 minutes Bake at 325 for 10-15 minutes, let cool, then fill and bake as directed.
Key Lime Filling
Ingredients
- 1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk
- 1/2 cup bottled or fresh key lime juice
- 1-2 tsps grated key lime or lime zest (optional)
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 2 eggs
Directions
Raise the oven temperature to 350. Whisk together the milk, juice, eggs, zest and vanilla. Pour the mixture into the baked tart shells and bake for 15 minutes, or until barely set. Let come to room temperature, then chill in the fridge for about an hour.
White Chocolate Mousse (courtesy of my friend, Dennis, chef extraordinaire. I’ve been using this one on and off for years. It’s always my ’standby’)
Ingredients
- 9 ounces white chocolate
- 5 large egg yolks
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 2 leaves gelatin soaked in cold water, then squeezed dry prior to adding to mousse mixture (or one half of a 1/4 oz package of granulated gelatin dissolved in 2 T of cold water)
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 3 large egg whites
- pinch sea salt
Directions
1. In a double boiler, melt the chocolate. Meanwhile, combine the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and stir until the sugar crystals are no longer visible. Add the chocolate to the egg mixture and blend. Add gelatin.
2. Either in a mixer fitted with a wire whisk attachment or by hand, whip the cream until stiff peaks form. In a separate bowl, do the same with the egg whites and the salt. Set aside both.
3. Slowly fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture. Carefully fold the egg white mixture into the chocolate-whipped cream mixture. Chill at least 2 hours prior to serving.
Macadamia simple syrup
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup white granulated sugar
- 1/2 cup water
- 1/2 cup whole macadamia nuts
Directions
In small saucepan, combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring, until sugar has dissolved and you have a slightly thick, but clear syrup.
In a food processor, grind the macadamia nuts until they reach a paste consistency (you’ll be able to see the oil in that paste). Gather up the paste and oil into some cheesecloth, and squeeze some of the oil into the simple syrup. Add some of the paste too, if desired. Save the paste in a sealed container in the fridge, for any recipe you’d like to add it too, or just mix it with some cocoa and cream, for a ‘macadamia’ nutella.
Candied Macadamia Nuts
Ingredients
- 1 cup white granulated sugar
- 1/2 cup of water
- 1 cup whole macadamia nuts
- A favorite spice or two, like cayenne pepper, or coriander (optional)
Directions
In a skillet or pan, melt down the sugar and water and let it cook until it’s golden brown, or reaches the hard ball to hard crack stage. Quickly add the nuts, coating them in the caramel, then remove to a parchment lined sheet pan, making sure you separate them before they stick together. Add spices (if using) while the caramel is still hot, and roll the nuts around in them using a silicone spatula or spoon. Chop coarsely when cool.
Assemble
Place the tart in the center of your serving plate. Pipe or scoop a quenelle of the white chocolate mousse onto one side of the tart. Garnish with a slice or two of lime, some raspberries, the candied nuts, and a light drizzle of the macadamia syrup all over everything, so it glistens. Additional garnishes could include white and dark chocolate dipped raspberries or strawberries. Be creative!
‘HOLEY’ Ciabatta!
June 4, 2008 at 7:29 am | In Breads | 4 CommentsTags: Biga, Breads, Ciabatta, Craig Ponsford's Ciabatta, Italian Slipper Bread
After fiddling around with many a ciabatta recipe, and getting mediocre or shall I say, less than impressive results, (the crumb was never good enough..too tight) I had finally resigned myself to the fact that I just lacked what it took to create that perfect, airy, chewy, riddled with beautiful holes, italian slipper bread. Well, after reading through some books on bread baking at my local bookstore, I came across a recipe for ciabatta by Craig Ponsford. This is BY FAR, the best recipe for ciabatta out there. Now, this is not only because it worked for me, but after perusing through several bread forums, the consensus seems to be the same. His ciabatta is simply the best.
As usual, I’ll run you through what got me to such a beautiful, perfectly crumbed ’slipper bread’ – (which is called that, because the finished loaf usually looks similar to a slipper) — complete with my inability to take a decent picture with my awful digital camera!
Ciabatta starts with a biga (A more liquid version is called a poolish). What’s a biga? To make it simple and eliminate the need to type it out, I’m using Wikipedia’s definition.
Biga is a type of pre-fermentation used in Italian baking. Many popular Italian breads, including ciabatta, are made using a biga. Using a biga adds complexity to the bread’s flavor and is often used in breads that need a light, open texture with holes. Apart from adding to flavor and texture, a biga also helps to preserve bread by making it less perishable.
Ponsford’s Biga uses a combination of AP, Whole Wheat, Rye and Bread Flours. However, this is the kicker..it calls for 1/384 tsp of yeast. How do you get 1/384 tsp of yeast? Well, he makes it easy. In the recipe.. you take 1/2 tsp yeast and dissolve it in 1 cup of water. You then use only 1/2 tsp of the yeasted water in the biga. I’m amazed at how much the biga rose, considering it was such a teeny amount of yeast to about 3 or so cups of a mix of AP, Bread, Whole Wheat and Rye flours. This biga needed to ferment for 18-24 hours. I started with a fist size lump of dough and I honestly didn’t think it would work with such a small amount of diluted yeast, but lo and behold..we’ve got bubbles and a doubling in size after 12 hours. Unfortunately, I never got to see the full rise, as I slept, and once I woke up, it was at the stage it was supposed to be..lumpy, slightly less bubbly, oatmeal ‘like’.
This is the biga after 12 hours. BTW..the yellow liquid is not hooch. It’s the tiny bit of canola oil I used to grease the container. It somehow doubled itself during the first fermentation. Love how the biga steered clear of it, though.

Next on the agenda was mixing the dough. First the Biga goes into the mixer bowl. Notice the bubbles and elasticity? Good sign.


Next comes, in order, the flour and salt, yeast, then water.

Let this come together using a dough hook (hand kneading would be impossible at this point, since it’s such a wet dough, and the addition of flour to make it manageable would result in a ciabatta with a tight crumb, which defeats the purpose), and let it run for about 5 minutes, until you get what you see in the photo below. See how wet this dough is? Almost like a thick pancake batter. This is the starting point to a light, airy ciabatta with lots of holes. Hydration is SO key here.

Now it’s time to let it ferment for a while, so pour it into a lightly greased container to let it work it’s magic.


You’d never think this dough will actually come together, enough so that it’s more manageable to work with..but it does, with proper stretchings, folds and turns, which you will see below. After an initial 20 minute ferment, the dough is poured onto a lightly floured bench, where it’s gently folded letter style, then put back into the container to ferment for another 20 minutes. This is done at 20, 40, 60 and 80 minutes. The photo below is ready for it’s fourth turn, and you can see how much it has changed. Although still extremely soft (which is how you want it to remain), it’s easier to work with now.

Last fold, bringing in all 4 sides, then put back into the container to rise for 70 to 100 minutes.


I forgot to take a photo of the next rise. However, trust me when I say it doubled in size. Now we can finally prepare and shape the loaves for their final rise. I’ll show you one loaf here. Very gently scraping the dough onto the bench, then folding it again like a letter, only two sides. As with Sourdough, you don’t want to lose any of those bubbles, not to mention this dough is a lot more delicate than sourdough. When folded, lightly seal, pinching the seams closed, gently.
The shaped dough is placed on a floured linen towel or couche (a heavier canvas cloth used to hold the shape of the bread), seam side up. Cover lightly with the floured towel, and let rise for about 45 minutes. During this time, place or move your **baking stone to the middle rack and preheat the oven to 450 F. Ponsford prefers baking his ciabatta on the middle rack, as opposed to other artisan breads, which are usually baked on the bottom rack since that’s where it’s the hottest. Below is the risen loaf.

Now comes the tricky part. You need to flip the dough, seam side down, onto the peel. In the case of a dough this delicate, you need to use parchment paper on the peel since you don’t want to add anymore flour or cornmeal, semolina..etc..not to mention (as I’ve already mentioned 20 times already), it’s such a soft, delicate dough..so it’s much easier to slide onto the stone with the parchment. The ‘flip’ has to be quick, so you don’t degas the dough too much.

Now, the next step kind contradicts everything I mentioned above about handling the dough as to not lose the bubbles and airy texture, but this actually helps the bread’s texture. A bunch of quick. deep dimples all over the loaf. It doesn’t deflate it that much, and oven spring will pop it right back up. The dimpling actually GIVES you more chewy, airy holes in your final loaf. Dimple to the bottom as much as you can, trying to keep the surrounding dough ‘poofy’.

Into the oven, along with a few ice cubes or water into a preheated pan I always keep on the bottom of my oven when bread baking. This adds steam, which you want, for a crispy, final crust. A few sprays of the walls with a water bottle a few times the first 10 minutes, is something you can do too, just to keep that steam going. The below is an awful photo, but if you’ve read my ‘About’ page, you know I’m on a mission to purchase a much better camera.

After about 40 minutes, it’s ‘photo gallery’ time. Some of these photos were taken in a flourescent lit room, the last two, in the kitchen with the flash. I have to try every setting and room to try and get a decent photo with this joke of a camera!!





** If you don’t own a baking stone, get one. If you don’t want to get one, place the shaped bread seam side down on a lightly greased sheet pan, or one covered with parchment paper or a silpat. Cover and let rise, dimple, and bake as above, on the sheet pan. No flipping onto the peel required.
The recipe for Craig Ponsford’s ciabatta can be found in Maggie Glezer’s Artisan Baking Across America, but if prodded, I’ve been known to send it to those who are really interested.
An even better option would be to check out the full recipe here, at Lindsey’s Luscious blog. While you’re at it, check out her whole blog! Great recipes, blogging and photos!
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Add Degrassi High to the Canadian shows I used to watch, but I couldn’t extract anything from that in a culinary sense, no matter how hard I tried, although the name of Joey’s band, ‘The ZIT Remedy’, does refer to the ‘DOTS’ that pepper many an adolescent face. OK, I better stop there, as I want to make you hungry, NOT ill!



















